TRAVEL | PUGLIA, A WHISTLE STOP TOUR
Puglia, nestled in the heel of Italy is an Italophile’s dream destination with stunning white-washed towns towering above the flowering countryside and olive groves, the fairy like trullis only found in Puglia, and then to the coast with the glistening turquoise waters, and not to forget the amazing food.
With a rainy morning to fill, and inspired by our masseria’s amazing ceramic collection, we headed to Grottaglie, not a particularly pretty town but well-known for its ceramics.
Nicola Fasano’s splattered homeware had caught my eye in Rome a few years back so it was a pleasant surprise to come across her store there and meet her in person. It’s full to the brim with beautiful ceramics and you really are spolit for choice.
We grabbed lunch at La Luna Nel Pozzo, a small but very quaint trattoria with a mouth-watering menu and you know you’re on to a good thing when the locals also join you.
Next stop was Ostuni. Perched on a hill, the medieval city also known as the ‘White City’ commands a wonderful view as you approach and its laid-back charm doesn’t disappoint.
Greeted by the main square, Piazza del Liberta’s beautiful Baroque town hall and the Chiesa di San Francesco, you then wind through a maze of white-washed buildings, alleyways, inviting doorways and the not to be missed, Ostuni Cathedral and Chieso di San Vito Martire, which is now a museum.
It’s a shopping destination too….
- Typicus – sells a range of gourmet goodies from the region
- Buongiorno Puglia – sells artisan crafts including bags, jewellery and ceramics
- Tiki – home to bright and fun clothing and accessories
- Le Tavollette di Miriam – a talented artist selling contemporary paintings of Puglia’s towns
Sadly, we didn’t get to try Ostuni’s culinary delights, but we did enjoy an Aperol and the lovely seaside views at Borgo Antico Bistrot, a very sweet outdoor restaurant.
You can’t come to Puglia and not visit Alberobello, Puglia’s picture postcard town and a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site for its thousands of trulli, the region’s traditional house. WIth their dome roof and diminutive size, wandering the trulli-lined streets is like being in a fairy tale.
The final stop was Polignano a Mare, a cliff-top town boasting faded grandeur buildings and dramatic Adriatic sea views. It’s also home to the picturesque Lama Monochile, a beach straddled by cliffs opening onto crystal clear turquoise waters.
At the height of summer, you can imagine its heaving with tourists so were lucky to visit in quiet season. Strolling the Via Cala Paura takes you through the heart of the town and delivers incredible endless sea views.
This was very much as whistle stop tour, scratching the surface but we fell in love with Puglia and with more to do there’s no reason or excuse not to return.